Bull Island is one of my favorite places on Earth. I visit as often as I can, on day trips, but there is nothing like a Dominick House weekend. Just like the Island itself, no two weekends are alike. My last weekend on the island was in October, it’s a good segue into this trip’s recap, if you are interested in starting at the beginning.
October 2023 – Dominick House Trip
This second trip was originally planned for November. A Coastal Expeditions Meta post alerted that a last-minute cancellation opened up a solo spot for March. I spend a whole day convincing myself to pull up my November reservation to March. I had just been on the Turner House Expedition a couple of weeks ago, and hadn’t stowed my adventure stuff yet, or my desire for more adventure. I’m a waffling Libra, always weighing both sides of things, sometimes into paralysis. The back and forth conversation in my head went on all day. I also didn’t want to take up a spot in place of someone who has never gotten the opportunity, so I rationalized that by waiting a bit.
There are only 12 weekends a year this trip is offered. When reservations open up at the beginning of the year, the coemption for a space is ON. They usually sell out immediately, and the most popular dates are snapped up faster than free Rolling Stones tickets at your local pub. I was originally shooting for May, which was impossible, and then I got behind in selecting, and ended up in November. The weather forecast for the March weekend was looking good, the clincher, so I snapped up the spot.
This was, of course, me forgetting that I live in South Carolina, and the weather is a fickle beast. The forecast immediately turned to rain all weekend, about ten seconds after I switched up my dates. Regardless, we got so lucky, we experienced all the best of spring weather packed into one weekend. Everything from rain to spectacular clear blue skies. The short periods of rain on the first day didn’t hamper us at all, if anything, it added to the adventure. Rain barely slowed us down.
Starting Out
The House
Once at the house, I was overjoyed to be assigned my old room! And my old bed! It was like coming home. I’m a little biased, but the far left room is by far the best room in the house. There are three beds, a non-working but very atmospheric fireplace, and it is surrounded by windows on three sides. Also…drumroll please…a private full bath en suite! Sweet! The room is amazingly quiet for a full house, and adjacent to the dining room for the best of the sweet aroma of a first breakfast wake-up call.
There is a Witness Tree in front of the house, a huge old live oak. The before and after the rain Resurrection Fern put on a spectacular display. The tree has seen so much history, and has weathered so many storms.
The Island / Beaches
In December of 2023, Bull Island weathered a terrible storm. The December 2023 Storm With No Name brought over 14″ of rain and hurricane-force winds, it was a rare, devastating southern nor’easter. I remember it well, because a tornado touched down just miles from where I live in Myrtle Beach. Having just visited Bull Island in October, the landscape changes, the erosion, the road that was completely gone – was shocking to see. My sunrise tree was gone, that particular area of the beach almost completely unrecognizable. We had done beach yoga on that stretch in October, and I had been moved to tears of joy. I have to admit I shed a few of sorrow, and of awe, at nature’s drastic changes.
Using my compass, and some still-existing land features as a guide, this is where I think the before and after spot is for the Sunrise Tree.
Salt water has breached some of the freshwater ponds. The future is uncertain as to what can be done, if anything. The shifting sands of the barrier islands are relentless, and sometimes can’t be averted or even mitigated.
Local Author and Adventurer Bob Raynor has a great post on his blog with a better look at what has changed. His books and his website have been a great resource for me. When I saw the devastation, I was so overwhelmed, I didn’t take many pictures.
The seas were rough, churning, and we were able to see a lot of interesting things on shore. This is a whelk egg pod. Most had already hatched, but we were able to look at a tiny miniature from one of the pods.
There were broad patches of what looked to be pebbles, but upon closer inspection turned out to be tiny sea creatures. The shells were all different colors.
Two completely different and uniquely beautiful sunrises, one overcast, one bright.
Human Traces
During one of our night hikes, we visited the Magwood Family cemetery plot, a little patch surrounded by a wooden fence on Summerhouse Road. There are only four graves, with a modern marker repeating the difficult to read information on the old stones. Mildred Magwood was just 7 months old when she passed – her death certificate lists her cause of death in 1912 as malnutrition. Her mother, Bessie Viola Cook Magwood died the same year Mildred was born. Bessie’s death certificate lists cause of death as kidney failure, and probably happened shortly after Mildred’s birth. A sad story.
There are also the tabby remains of the Old Fort, a 1700s lookout tower. It was manned by both natives and settlers, set up to warn the mainland of unidentified approaching ships by signaling.
Wisteria
There were several dramatic displays of beautiful but awful blooming wisteria. While pretty, and fragrant, the wisteria we saw was invasive, and can easily overrun a garden. The Asian varieties in particular will take over. We learned how to identify Chinese or Japanese varieties by the direction of the vines on their chosen support structure. If they turn counterclockwise, it is Chinese wisteria (or one of the American varieties). Japanese wisteria always grows clockwise.
My advice is – don’t plant wisteria. Ask this palm tree what it thinks.
Native Plant Alternatives
The Coastal Expeditions Family
When meeting up with our tour companions at the dock, everyone is always a little shy and awkward. However – Coastal Expeditions just seems to draw the best of the best as far as people go (or I have just been inordinately lucky). I was delighted to see my new friend Karen, who I had just spent the weekend with earlier in March at the Turner House! There was also Sean, an amazing photographer, who was on the October Dominick House tour.
Much to my surprise and delight, a young lady approached me and asked my name. My soon-to-be-new-friend Olivia had seen my October Dominick House blog post while researching trips, and we had interacted on Meta! Our interaction had helped her decide to come on the trip! I was delighted to discover that we were assigned as roommates, along with Donna, another photography adventurer. Sharing a room with strangers is somewhat off-putting, but my roomies were great! Even though I am not listing everyone out here, everyone that I interacted with this was fun to meet. No drama. I hope to see my new friends again soon, and I wish them all well on their continued adventures.
Last but certainly not least – our hosts for the weekend. Chris Crowley at Coastal Expeditions has an incredible talent for choosing the right people, and then nurturing and developing them into even greater people. The team of hosts for these weekends are made up of a Captain and two crewmembers that take care of us all weekend long. All three are leaders, naturalists, educators, managers, drivers, chefs, teachers, and storytellers. They prepare all the meals, and they plan and execute all of the activities. I was so inspired by the crew in October – Captain Chris, Annie, and Abbi. I went on the Awendaw Paddle and Hike trip (having never even sat in a kayak prior), led by Abbi, and had a wonderful time. I never would have had the confidence to try kayaking without their encouragement.
My neighbor, Betty, is an angel who takes care of my cats whenever the adventure bug bites me. After my tales of Bull Island, Betty visited the place for the first time this past winter. Betty came home gushing about the Ferry Naturalist, how impressive and knowledgeable she was. It was no surprise that the naturalist on Betty’s day trip was Annie, and that Annie made the same impression on Betty as she had on me.
Fast forward to this trip, and lo and behold – Annie is Captain Annie now, what a spectacular accomplishment! I can’t tell you how wonderful it was to see Annie again, and to learn of her new role. Annie leads with quiet, calm confidence and grace. Although I definitely missed Abbi, I now have two additional new inspirations, Jackie and Morgan. Full of bubbly enthusiasm about the world around them, and in the opportunity to share what they have learned. These ladies worked so hard on everything they did, from the smallest detail. They prepared tasty meals. They catered to my sweet tea cravings. Their joy in living life makes them a delight just to be around.
The best thing about this team is the width and breadth of their knowledge! Their personal interests and expertise is so varied. Bugs, plants, history, animals, Dominick House, trails, fine cooking – everyone on the trip learned something, without realizing they were absorbing an education, because we were all having so much fun at the same time!
The Food, and Sweet Tea for Me
The meals were fantastic! So delicious, good fuel for adventuring. Where else can you taste homemade paw paw syrup on your blueberry pancakes? Have Abbi’s famous sausage and biscuits, prepared by Morgan and Jackie? Bacon that you didn’t have to cook or clean up after! Or have a charcuterie board turtle-art appetizer?
I don’t indulge in sweet tea at home, but I think I drank about 20 gallons of it on this trip. The girls kept me hydrated, caffeinated, and sugar high!
The American Alligator
Be sure to visit the companion post, there was just too much to talk about, and too many great pictures of my spirit animal, the American Alligator to fit it all in here. The gators ended up with their very own post. Click here to check it out.
What’s Next
Next up for me is a Coastal Expeditions Blackwater Kayak trip. If anyone had tried to tell me a year ago that I would be planning ANY kayak trip, I would have laughed out loud. That’s how much confidence these trips have added to my life. I will definitely be going back to Dominick House, hopefully again and again. I’ll be waiting to pounce on a good 2025 date…
…If not sooner. I hear there is an opening in November, if it hasn’t already been snatched up. Hmmmm….
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